You emerge from Leicester Square tube station, blinking in the London sunlight (optimistic, but some days in London it doesn’t rain). First stop, a mission not just for pints or a G&T, but for a journey through time to a small and modest watering hole, the Tom Cribb. It is one of London's most storied pubs, a homage to the relentlessly harsh 19th century sport of bare-knuckle boxing.
As you head down Coventry Street, take a moment to admire the Art Deco splendour of the Trocadero. Originally built in 1896 as a restaurant and ballroom, it later became a cinema and entertainment complex. In its heyday, it was a glittering symbol of London's nightlife, hosting everyone from Charlie Chaplin to the Beatles. For those of a younger vintage - I’m going to assume you know who the Beatles are – Chaplain was an absolute superstar from the era of silent movies. He was born just around the corner from yours truly and had a tough up- brining. His old man did a runner and his mother was committed to a mental asylum, so he’d had two spells in the workhouse before he was nine. But he had talent and a powerful work ethic, his biographer describing his success as ‘the most dramatic of all the rags to riches stories ever told.’ Indeed, he was so successful he achieved the very highest accolade - a pub named after him! It was on the Elephant & Castle roundabout in south east London and is one of the many that have now disappeared. Otherwise it would be in this book!
I digress - back to the walk. As you stroll past the site of the old Café de Paris, you might feel the urge to adjust your imaginary bow tie. This swanky underground nightclub was once the place to see and be seen, darling. On March 8, 1941, while Tom Cribb's spiritual descendants were likely huddled in air raid shelters, the crème de la crème of London society decided that a little thing like 130 tons of high explosives raining from the sky wasn't going to spoil their Saturday night out.
Gentlemen in tuxedos, ladies in evening gowns, sipping champagne and feeling as safe as houses (ironically, given the circumstances). The suave Ken 'Snakehips' Johnson and his band were just warming up with "Oh, Johnny, Oh, Johnny, Oh!" - a tune that would take on a whole new meaning moments later. Faster than you could say "duck and cover," two uninvited guests crashed the party in the shape of a pair of 110lb bombs joined, punching through the Rialto Cinema above like particularly aggressive gate-crashers. One bomb exploded right above the band. The other, perhaps more of a dancer, landed on the dance floor, spun around a bit, but didn't go off.
Sadly, in a twist of fate that would make even the hardest-boiled noir detective wince, 'Snakehips' Johnson, most of his band, and even the restaurateur and head waiter were killed instantly. As you continue your walk to the Tom Cribb, ponder the irony: while boxers like Cribb made their living taking punches, it was the high society crowd at the Café de Paris who ended up on the receiving end of the biggest hit of all. It just goes to show, in London, you never know when history might come crashing through the ceiling.
The club reopened after the war and continued to be a hotspot until, in common with many of London’s pubs, it closed in 2020.
But your destination lies ahead on Panton Street - the Tom Cribb pub. Owned and named after one of boxing's earliest heroes, this unassuming watering hole is a temple to the sweet science.
As you push open the door, you're greeted by the familiar sounds and smells of a London boozer. But look closer, and you'll see the walls adorned with sepia-toned photos and paintings of pugilists past. You've stepped into a time capsule of London's sporting history.
Tom Cribb, the pub's namesake, was no ordinary publican. Born in 1781, this Bristol lad came to London as a coal porter and found his calling in the rough-and-tumble world of bare-knuckle boxing. Cribb fought his way to become the English champion in 1809, but it was his bouts with Tom Molineaux, a former American slave known as "Black Ajax," that cemented his legend.
Their first fight in 1810 was a brutal affair that lasted 39 rounds. Cribb emerged victorious, but not without controversy - some say the crowd's interference saved him from defeat. The rematch in 1811 drew a massive crowd of 25,000, a testament to boxing's popularity in Regency London. Cribb won again, cementing his place in boxing lore.
As you sip your pint, you might spot a print of Pierce Egan on the wall. This Irish-born journalist was the premier sports writer of his day, and his "Boxiana" series brought the world of prizefighting to a wide audience. Egan's vivid prose captured not just the fights, but the colorful characters and raucous atmosphere surrounding them.
Socially speaking, this was when London began its big spurt. While the city was home to 1 million people in 1800, by 1815 it was already up to 1.4 million, a 400,000 person increase in a teenager’s lifetime. This London, and its rambunctious new population and social scene, was no better observed and recorded than by Egan. He made his name, and achieved a fair degree of notoriety, as a sporting journalist whose presence was said to convey significance on any boxing bout.
In those days prize fighting was supported by ‘the Fancy’, the inner-core of the boxing fraternity, Egan himself coining the phrase ‘sweet science’. This was all before gloves, the Queensberry Rules and the foundation of the Amateur Athletic Club in the 1860s made it a more respectable activity.
His serial Boxiana pieces, written under the moniker of ‘One of the Fancy’, appeared in the Weekly Despatch. The fights could last for dozens of irregularly timed rounds until both fighters collapsed from exhaustion and the referee declared a winner - based on which group of supporters was least likely to give him a good hiding.
But the really interesting aspect of all this is the way Egan used boxing – a sport which appealed to the highest of the high and the lowest of the low alike - as a window onto the London of his day. Some say he anticipated the social observations of Victorian writers like Henry Mayhew and even Charles Dickens, who read Boxiana as a boy, and whose works, such as the Pickwick Papers, was directly influenced by Egan’s approach.
Egan’s vivid, colourful and direct description of the people and events he sought out on his travels around the city offer an unprecedented panorama of the London life of the period. One minute he was with the Prince Regent at ringside, the next rubbing shoulders with the ‘working men, gypsies, whores, hard cases, head cases, swells, half-swells, bookies, buggers, bucks, bloods and thieves’ who provided him with an unprecedented (for a writer) knowledge of the London underworld and its language. In fact, he used his knowledge of the London vernacular and social types to create the new social categories and terms he used in his unforgettable pen portraits.
As well as the Fancy themselves there were, for example, the ‘milling coves’ (fighters), ‘flash coves’ (knowing boys), Cyprians (sporty camp-following women), or foot-toddlers (those who would walk for days to attend a rumoured fight because they could not afford horse-drawn transportation). All, naturally, were heavily fortified in their efforts by the blue ruin (gin).
As you and your friends relax and enjoy a pint fast forward a century and a half, and you'll see photos of another London fighter engaged in another legendary bout - Henry Cooper vs. Cassius Clay (later Muhammad Ali) in 1963. Cooper, the south east London hero, famously knocked down the brash young American with his devastating left hook, "Enry's 'Ammer." Clay was saved by the bell and before the following round Angelo Dundee, Clay’s trainer, split the American’s gloves with a razor so he could have extra rest time while new gloves were put on. Though Clay ultimately won, the fight remains a proud moment in London boxing history.
Look around at the pictures and raise a toast to many other giants of the ring, and consider how much London has changed - and how much it hasn't. The roar of the crowd at a prizefight has been replaced by the cheers in football stadiums, but the city's love of sport endures. The grimy streets of Regency London have given way to gleaming skyscrapers, but in pubs like the Tom Cribb, you can still touch a piece of that history.
From Tom Cribb to Henry Cooper, from Pierce Egan to modern-day sports writers, this unassuming pub has seen it all. And who knows? Maybe you'll feel the urge to throw a playful jab at one of your friends – but please remember, the days of bare-knuckle boxing are long gone; these days it’s Queensbury Rules only!
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From Tom Cribb to The Marquis:
Leaving the Tom Cribb pub, you step back onto Panton Street, the echo of pugilistic legends still reverberating in your mind. As you head towards your next destination, The Marquis, you'll traverse a path where history is hidden in every building, every alleyway.
Take a short stroll down Haymarket. As you walk, cast a glance at Her Majesty's Theatre, a grand edifice that has been home to some of the West End's most famous productions, including Andrew Lloyd Webber's "The Phantom of the Opera," which has played continuously since 1986. The original theatre on this site dates back to 1705, and over the centuries, it has witnessed countless transformations and hosted a myriad of performances, making it a cornerstone of London's theatrical history.[Add a few more productions
: Perhaps a quick rumination on the history of theatre in London]
Continuing down Haymarket, you pass the Theatre Royal, another iconic venue. Established in 1663, it is one of the oldest theatres in London, with a rich history of dramatic performances and operatic productions. The likes of David Garrick and Laurence Olivier have graced its stage, and the theatre remains a beacon of London's theatre scene.
As well as the hidden, there’s also the obvious.
As you near Trafalgar Square, the imposing figure of Nelson's Column comes into view. Standing at 169 feet tall, it commemorates Admiral Horatio Nelson, who died at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. This towering monument is more than just a tribute to a single man or a singular event; it is a testament to a bygone era with an entirely different worldview.
Back in the early 19th century, war heroes like Admiral Nelson were revered with mythic status. Nelson's victory at Trafalgar was not merely a military triumph; it was a symbol of national pride. The column, with its Corinthian capital and statue of Nelson, was erected in the heart of London as a reminder of British naval supremacy and the sacrifices made to maintain it.
The like of it will never be built again.
Today the commemoration of war heroes is approached with nuance, complexity and doubt. Modern memorials emphasise the human cost of conflict, reflecting a broader societal shift towards valuing reconciliation and remembering all who suffered, rather than solely celebrating martial prowess. In Nelson's time, monuments were grand and unambiguous, designed to instil a sense of unity and patriotism. Nelson's Column was meant to inspire awe and respect, projecting confidence and might around the globe. That old world was one of clarity, where national identity was closely tied to military success.
In contrast, today's world grapples with the complexities of historical narratives. We live in an era where statues and monuments are frequently re-evaluated, their meanings debated and contested. Thus, Nelson's Column stands not only as a monument to Admiral Nelson and the Battle of Trafalgar but also as a marker of the passage of time and the evolution of values. Perhaps this might prompt you to consider how history is not just about the past but is continually reshaped by the present – a dialogue between different worlds, perspectives, and times.
Trafalgar Square itself now serves as a space for public discourse hosting events ranging from cultural festivals to political demonstrations. Despite all that don’t forget to take a picture of yourself sitting atop one of the four bronze lions, designed by Sir Edwin Landseer, they remain some of London's most recognizable sculptures.
Just a stone's throw from Trafalgar Square is the National Gallery. If time permits, take a brief detour to explore its vast collection of paintings, including works by Van Gogh, Leonardo da Vinci, and Turner. The gallery is free to enter and offers a serene escape from the bustling city streets.[We need a separate art gallery walk]
Heading towards Charing Cross Road, you soon arrive at our next destination. The Marquis, a gem tucked away as you head closer to Covent Garden. As you step inside, you're greeted by the eclectic decor and the lively atmosphere. The Marquis is a haven for music lovers and along with a drink you can request a record be played from their collection of vinyl records. They regularly host live music events that draw both locals and visitors.
But the history of The Marquis extends far beyond its current incarnation. This pub has seen its fair share of notable patrons and has even made cameo appearances in films like "Mary Poppins Returns" and "Last Christmas," adding a touch of cinematic charm to its storied walls.
The Marquis' connection to music isn't just a recent development. In the swinging sixties, the pub was a favourite haunt of musicians and artists who flocked to London's vibrant cultural scene. Legends of impromptu jam sessions and late-night gatherings abound, lending the place an air of creative spontaneity that endures to this day. [Research and add detail]
Upstairs, the bar and dining area offer a cozy retreat, perfect for enjoying a spot of home-cooked food. The menu, reflecting traditional British fare with a modern twist, is a decent accompaniment to a pint of ale or a glass of wine. [Double Check this]
As you sip your drink, take a moment to soak in the atmosphere. The walls, adorned with memorabilia and photographs, tell the story of the pub’s varied past. From its early days as a meeting place for artists and musicians to its present role as a vibrant hub of live music.
After listening to the music and enjoying a pint or two it’s to move on.
Get ready for a curve ball.
From The Marquis to Freemasons' Hall: A Meander Through London's Historic Heart
Leaving the lively atmosphere of The Marquis behind, we’re headed towards Freemasons' Hall, a journey that will take you down the Strand, through Aldwych, and into Holborn, with plenty of historical landmarks and hidden history.
Strolling down the Strand, you’ll encounter the Savoy Hotel on your right. Opened in 1889, this swanky establishment was the first luxury hotel in Britain to have electric lights, electric lifts, and bathrooms in most of the lavishly decorated rooms. It's been frequented by celebrities ranging from Frank Sinatra to Marilyn Monroe. Just think, you’re walking in the footsteps of legends – though perhaps with less glamour and some sensible footwear.
A bit further along, you'll pass Somerset House. This grand neoclassical building has seen it all – originally built as a royal palace, it later became the home of various government offices. Nowadays, it's a bustling arts and cultural center, hosting everything from open-air concerts to ice-skating in winter. If you're lucky, you might catch a glimpse of an art installation or a trendy pop-up event.
Next, you’ll wander into Aldwych, where you can admire the Waldorf Hilton. This iconic hotel has been the scene of many a high-society scandal and glamorous party. Imagine the ghostly echoes of jazz bands and clinking champagne glasses as you stroll past. [Research something with a bit more gore]
Turning onto Kingsway, you’ll soon find yourself in Holborn, a neighbourhood that blends the historic with the contemporary. As you approach Freemasons' Hall, take a moment to appreciate its stunning Art Deco façade. Completed in 1933, this architectural masterpiece is the headquarters of the United Grand Lodge of England and stands as a testament to the grandeur of early 20th-century design.
Now, about those Freemasons. Yes, the organization is seemingly shrouded in mystery, and yes, they have a reputation for secret handshakes and clandestine meetings. But fear not – you won’t need to memorize any cryptic passwords to gain entry to their bar. The Freemasons' Hall is open to the public, and you’re welcome to enjoy a drink without having to join the ranks of this ancient fraternity. The bar is open to Joe Punter during but do check times on the internet.
When you get there, try not to joke about building pyramids or hiding templar treasure; they’ve probably heard it all before.
Inside, the grandeur continues with an opulent interior featuring marble floors, intricate mosaics, and lavish chandeliers. The bar area offers a refined setting for a quiet drink. So, channel your inner 1920s aristocrat and order something suitably sophisticated – perhaps a gin and tonic with a slice of cucumber?
For those with a thirst for knowledge (or just nosy curiosity), the museum within Freemasons' Hall is a must-visit. It’s packed with fascinating exhibits on the history of Freemasonry, including artifacts, regalia, and artworks. You might even uncover the answer to that burning question: what’s the deal with those aprons?
Last Leg
From Freemasons' Hall to The Princess Louise:
Leaving behind the majestic Art Deco splendour of Freemasons' Hall, let’s move ontot he final stop: The Princess Louise. It's time for one last pint to round off your walk, and what better place to end than in a pub steeped in Victorian charm?
As you step out onto Great Queen Street, take a left and head towards High Holborn. This short walk is a delightful blend of old and new. As you stroll, you'll pass by the imposing facade of Holborn Bars, a red-brick Victorian Gothic masterpiece that once housed the Prudential Assurance Company. Its turrets and arches are an example of Victorian exuberance, designed to impress clients and competitors alike. [Research - there must be some dark tales here]
Continuing along, you'll soon reach the lively intersection of High Holborn and Kingsway. Depending on the time of day the area will be teeming with office workers, students, and tourists. As you cross the street, you might spot a blue plaque or two, commemorating the famous residents who once called this area home. It's London, after all – every corner has a story. [more on this]
And then, almost as if out of nowhere, you arrive at The Princess Louise, standing proud on High Holborn. Built in 1872, this pub is a veritable time capsule, best known for its meticulously preserved 1891 Victorian interior. The pub's wood paneling, etched glass, and series of booths around an island bar are a testament to some fascinating Victorian design.
Owned by Samuel Smith Old Brewery of Tadcaster, Yorkshire, The Princess Louise is a tied house, meaning it exclusively serves beers from this historic brewery. This pub isn't just for any old drinker; I’m told it's a favourite haunt of academics from nearby Bloomsbury, the British Museum, and the University of London. So, as you sip your pint, you might overhear discussions on everything from the history of drinking to the temperature at which alcohol freezes.
The building itself is a protected, holding a Grade II* listing for its architectural and historical significance. That crafty Victorian interior was crafted by William B. Simpson and Sons, and is so cherished that even the men's toilets, complete with marble urinals, are listed. Yes, you read that right – the urinals are of historical importance. It's not every day you can claim to have used a bathroom that qualifies as a national treasure.
In 2007, the pub underwent a careful refurbishment, ensuring that its historic charm was preserved for future generations. The effort was well worth it, as evidenced by the pub's joint win in the best refurbishment category of the 2008 Pub Design Awards, awarded by CAMRA. Author Peter Haydon even ranked it No. 5 in his book "The Best Pubs in London," praising it for having "possibly the best preserved Victorian pub interior in London."
But The Princess Louise isn't just about its interior. It played a pivotal role in the British folk revival of the late 1950s and early 1960s. Folk clubs run by the likes of Ewan MacColl brought a new wave of musical talent to its cozy confines, adding yet another layer to its rich history.
As you settle into one of the snugs – those charming, semi-private booths designed to offer a bit of discretion (hence the term "snob screens") – you might feel a sense of connection to the past. The Princess Louise isn't just a place to grab a drink; it's a living museum, a place where the echoes of Victorian London mingle with the lively chatter of today's patrons.
As you raise your final pint of the walk, take a moment to appreciate the unique blend of history, architecture, and community that makes The Princess Louise so special. It's the perfect spot to end your journey, offering a taste of London's past and present in every sip. Cheers to a walk well done, and to the stories that make London the incredible city it is!